To add one more item to my “Been There, Done that” list, this weekend I covered most famous part of food capital of India, the Chandni Chowk.
After Delhi Metro’s arrival to this most famous and oldest place in Delhi, It has become much easier for anybody to come here. So I also took the same to reach here from Gurgaon (taken metro from Dwarka station) .
As soon as you enter Chandni Chowk streets, you feel like its a different world (specially if you are coming from city of malls). This place is a mixture of religion, food, chaos, history, modernity, tradition and commerce. People moving fast here and there in narrow lanes. On every corner you will find something special to eat.
Most of the shops in Chandni Chowk are handed over from father to son, most of them now being managed by the fourth or fifth generations. There are examples of halwais, namkeenwalahs, paranthewalahs and many others. Every shop has its own specialty.
Gali Paranthe wali
We decided to start our day with famous paranthas from Gali Paranthe Wali (गली पराँठेवाली). Some 50-60 years back there were around 15-20 shops in this street, but now only 4-5 have left.
The first parantha shop in the gali is Pandit Devi Dayal’s (established in 1886). Then the next one is Kanhaiya Lal Durga Prasad’s Parantha Shop (established in 1875). The last one was Pt. Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan (established in 1872). As we found last one as the oldest shop, we decided to move into this one.
All of these shops had photographs on the wall that showed Nehru, Indira Gandhi or Ranbir Kapoor dining in the shop.
50 years back the paranthas were just of 3-4 types aloo, gobi and matar (potato, cauliflower and peas). But now-a-days, you can try 24-25 varieties of paranthas. Apart from normal aloo, daal, methi, gobhi etc, there were special paranthas like papad, parat, gajar, kaju, rabri paranthas.
All of these are fried in pure ghee in cast iron pans (kadhai). This reminded me “The most enjoyable things in this world are either immoral, illegal or fattening !”
All paranthas are served with Mint-Pudina Chatni, Banana Imli Chatni, vegetable pickle and Aloo Subzi.
We could only try Karela, Kela, Gobhi and Tamatar Parantha (due to limited size of stomach
).Hopefully we will try more in next visit to Chandni Chowk.
Another good part was malai wali Lassi.
Camera Market
Another motive to come to Chandni chowk was to buy accessories for my newly bought Digital SLR (Canon EOS 450D- Digital Rebel XSi).
Only few people know that within the Chandni Chowk, there is Asia’s biggest camera market. Photo market on the Esplanade Road has some hundreds of small shops offering various ranges of latest still/video cameras and accessories. This is wholesale market and most professional photographers (from wedding photographers to new channel guys) come here to buy albums, lenses, filters, tripods, battery and camera bags etc.
One of the oldest shop is Pritam Studio (owned by a sardarji), has customers from all over india for camera repair.
Good thing about this market is you will get all sort of qualities and all at a genuine price. There is no bargaining and every shop sells at a good price.
I bought Kenko UV filter, camera bag, lens cleaning kit for my SLR and a bag for my Sony Tripod.
Jalebi Wala
After shopping for the camera, we found one of the other famous shop in Chandni Chowk, Jalebi Wala. Although stomach was full, I could not resist buying a small portion just to taste it.
This reminded me the old Doordarshan TV advertisement.
Natraj’s Dahi Bhalle
Finally before starting back to home, we decided to try another Chandni Chowk special, Natraj’s Dahi Bhalle.
Shop was established in 1940 and since then it has become one of the most famous street food shop in Delhi. It sells only aloo-tikki and dahi bhalle on the ground floor.
The dish lived up to its reputation and best ingredient in dahi bhalla was saunth (tamarind chutney), tangy and slightly sweet.
Another interesting thing you will see near Natraj shop is pedestrian jam in narrow street connecting to Delhi metro way. You must have seen traffic jam on roads, but this was jam of pedestrians
This was busiest and most narrow alley you will ever notice.
So we called it a day and started back to Dwarka Station through Delhi Metro.
Below are some other popular food shops we missed as we already had eaten more than we could
Gianiji ka Falooda, Ghantewala Halwai, Kanwarji Bhagirathmal Dalbhajiwallah (150 years old confectionary shop, famous for namkeens like dal bhuji (fried pulses) and aalu ka lachha (spicy fried potato sticks)). Hopefully, we will go there again soon and try all these ![]()
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Hmm….except the camera market have explored most the the CC meant for boys
and believe me I feel same the way I felt there 10 years back when I went there
Dear Pankaj,
Quite good and helpful narration. I am myself longing to visit Chandni chowk and now feel slightly more desperate.
BTW, your blog is quite practical and worth spending on.
- PV
Great article, lots of interesting things to digest. Very informative
I love the assorted sabzis that come with the paranthas. Chandni Chowk is a foodie’s paradise
A mouthwatering article
great work !!
@Richa
Thanks
I liked your Vegas blog too.
Yummy post!! Wonder, how is Neembu Parantha made and who would eat a Karela Parantha!!??!!
@Shilpa
We tried Karela Parantha. It was bitter but different
A trip down the nostalgia lane for me. In addition we went to the Karim’s of Chandni Chowk where a friend of mine was treating us on his birthday. We guys ordered Tandoori Raan, an entire leg of a lamb Tandoori-ed and ready to gorge. Damn, we ate like cannibals!
Nicely narrated and photographed. Keep visiting different parts of Delhi and putting up such posts!!
@Sourabh
Yes, we missed many things like Karims, Gianiji etc.
It will take 3-4 visits for me to finish all stuff.
Surprisingly, we are also planning for Karims and Raan (for a friend’s birthday treat).
Will update future trips too
i knew it’s a foodie’s paradise but camera market n that to at a genuine price …. i m surprised !! … n also that “karela paratha” …. very adventureous to try it
@Sharmila
You must go there and try paranatha and see camera street. Its worth going there.
WOW! Loved your post. I am hungry now…I didnt know about the camera market..thanks for the info., will visit when I get a chance..and good luck for the the IndiBlogger competition.
@Sanchita
Thanks for wishing me luck
I liked photographs on your blog.
I also like to take photographs. You can see all photos here : http://www.flickr.com/photos/pankajb/sets/
Very Yummy post i must say.
I have also been there many times.
Have ate paranthas at the same shop and incidently on the same spot where u sat.
@Abhishek
Nice to know that coincidence
i amnot a foodie.yet i relished the whole article.
During my recent trip of Himachal/Punjab, every day we used to get Parathans ONLY as breakfast in hotels,nothing else so we got tired of eating and when in Chandni chowk saw the shop you mentioned, did not dare to try one any more!
@Ayyangar
Paranthas in chandni chowk are very different from what you will get somewhere else. You won’t find so many varieties and such preparation anywhere else.
Next time you go there, do try them.
Hello Pankaj! This was a very nice (yummy) post on Chandni Chowk,,unfortunately I didn’t get to visit all these gallis and shops when i visited many years ago,was barely there for 15 mins!
oh well, there is always a next time! And thanks for coming over to my blog and liking some of my posts on indiblogger! that’s what brought me over to ur blog here, and this lovely post! Have a good day!
@Indy
Thanks for visiting and providing valuable comments.
Yes, I agree that Chandni Chowk is a world on its own and a day’s trip won’t do justice. I remember the place fairly well and the various ‘galies’ I had passed through. The small eating joints are fresh in my memory and I am sure you could not mention about all the legendary names there for want of space. I have lived in New Delhi for almost six years during 1970s, and 1990s and Delhi is a wonderful place for many things. I vividly remember many of them. Name anything. You may find it in Chandni Chowk. Do the ricksaws still ply there?
@Neelakantan
Rickshaws do not ply on chandni chowk any more. They were removed few years back to ease traffic movement.
Rickshaws still ply in Chandni Chowk everyday
Ah..it was nostalgic. I have spent considerable time in the lanes of Chandni Chowk during my college days. But never captured it so beautifully as you did!
Cheers.
@Garima
Thanks for appreciation.
Nice details
Now I must visit Chandni chowk after reading this.
okay now that’s one post that all Indian’s would have loved… though if i may say so- the places mentioned by you are already known and famous- becoz of the legacy attached though all of them may not be that good for eg. Moti Mahal- its one horrible place now- bad food, over prices and terrible service!
maybe next time you can try out and then write about the unknown secret jewels of the food world- like this really small shop near Matia mahal ( Jama Masjid) which only makes Afghani roti as we call it- visit it not only for the rotis but also for an interesting story behind why they weigh each atta roll before its flattened and baked!
PS: the Metro service -Gurgaon to Delhi is yet to start- how did you manage to travel by it then?
@Pallavi
Yes, Jama masjid is already on my next target.
I took Metro from Dwarka station. Gurgaon metro has started just today and will go till Qutub Minar only as of now.
yeah I know about the metro I am Delhizen
anyway hope you would explore places beyond Karims!
Cheers!
waah akele akele! jalebi with milk. yummy! surely will try today evening…
Nice post.. I am a complete fan of Paranthe wali Gali. A follow up on the chaat there would be nice
Yummilicious
dilli ke paranthe ..
I miss it so much nw!!
Now that you have ur cammie, looking forward to some more pics